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RP94
JR16.5
AM93
Domaine Bonneau du Martray : Corton-Charlemagne Grand cru 2007
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Domaine Bonneau du Martray : Corton-Charlemagne Grand cru 2007
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De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white shuts down for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and - for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude - suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade.